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Installing a 1G Cam Angle Sensor in a 2G


95-96 Cars ver1 95-96 Cars ver2 97-99 Cars

Author: Justin DuBois

The Good

The Bad

The Ugly

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Special thanks to Marco at Magnus Motorsports

Anatomy of a Cam Angle Sensor:

There are three types of cam angle sensor that are known to work. The early years (89-92) have a metal green/gray cover, use a flat rotating disk with slots, and an optical sensor.  The later year sensor (93-94) has a black plastic cover, uses curved metal plates that rotate through a hall-effect sensor.  The hall effect sensor is physically similar to the technology used in the 95-96 cam and crank sensors.  Theoretically the hall effect sensor is higher resolution.  They all work.

cas-greenlid-early.jpg (29374 bytes) cas-greenlid-late.jpg (24196 bytes) cas-blacklid.jpg (32114 bytes)
Green Lid, Optical Type, Long Wire Harness
Green Lid, Optical Type, Plug Harness
Black lid, Hall Effect Type, Plug Harness


How do I do this already?

1. Make a wiring harness. Use one of the following methods for your situation: 

    95-96 ECU Cars Method 1
    95-96 ECU Cars Method 2
    97-99 ECU Cars

2. Bend or remove any brackets that would get in the way of the installed 1G CAS

3. If you have a 2G head, remove your 97-99 CAS, or remove the rubber coated metal cap from the left end of the intake cam on your 95-96
4. Rotate the motor to Top Dead Center (TDC) #1 cylinder. The cam alignment pins will be at 12:00. The timing marks will be lined up at 3:00 on the exhaust cam and 9:00 on the intake cam. Those two marks will be lined up directly through the centerline of the cam bolts in the center of the pulleys.
5. Align the marks on the 1G CAS to TDC and Install.  Set the CAS at its mid-range of adjustment.

cas-180out.jpg (26101 bytes)

cas-linedup.jpg (35900 bytes)

Lined up 180 degrees out

Lined up correct for TDC #1


6. Make sure the ignition key is off and the ECU fuse is pulled. At this time make changes to your plug wires and injector wires if necessary. Connect your custom wiring harness to the 1G CAS.  Route the harness away from extreme heat possible noise generators, (spark plugs, coil's, alternators etc.)  Behind/under the intake manifold works fine.
7. Replace the ECU fuse and start the car.

Set the base timing:

1. Connect a timing light to battery power (+ and -) and the Number 1 spark plug.
2. Connect a data logger to the car and display timing advance and RPM
3. Allow the car to come up to temp. Coolant 212 deg F, 750 RPM +/- 100, Fan's should cycle on and off
4. Read the timing from the crank with no load on the motor. Each mark is 5 deg no fans, no lights, no A/C etc.
5. Adjust the position of the CAS until the readings from the TIMING LIGHT, match the timing advance displayed on the data logger. This is "stock" advance.  If you have a mild setup with stock cam's you'll pass the smog inspection if your ECU timing and crank timing reads 5 deg +/-3 deg BTDC at idle
6. Add additional timing at own risk, (Timing light advance) - (ECU advance) = (Base Timing Shift)  see: "The bad"
7. Tighten the 12mm nuts/bolts that hold the 1G CAS


951GCASInj1.jpg (26479 bytes)

Additional Geek Info: CAS Waveforms


Justin DuBois


Contact Road///Race Engineering
13022 La Dana Ct, Santa Fe Springs Ca. 90670
Phone (562) 777-1522  Fax (562) 777-1562
Last Updated 4/07