What do I need to put a 1G/JDM 6-bolt short block into my Manual Trans
For a Short Block replacement, keeping all
else 2G and stock;
You will need a COMPLETE 6 Bolt short block
with pan, from flywheel to the
timing belt cover. The 1G timing belt cover will need to be modified to
accommodate the 2G motor mount. The flywheel type will need to matched
manual trans type, AWD or FWD.
All DSM clutch are the same, AWD FWD 7Bolt
One bolt on the front if the transmission
will not have a place to thread into
the 6 bolt block, and is usually backed up with a nut.
2G Starter/transmission alignment plate.
2G motor mount (modified to fit 1G water pump)
2G AC compressor mounting bracket and compressor
2G water pump pulleys
2G PS pump bracket mount and 2G PS bracket
1G or 2G crank pulley
1G or 2G Dip stick tube and stick.
Use 2G sensors to go with your 2G ECU;
TPS, Knock, Water Temp for ECU, Water Temp Gauge, Oil Pressure switch
idiot light, Oil pressure sender for the gauge, and O2 sensors.
The oil filter assembly should match the
type of cooler you are going to use.
91'-92.5' were 6-bolt and water/oil cooled.
The water pipe and water neck will be 2G to
match the 2G head, so the plumbing
will be all set to feed a Water/Oil type oil cooler. Save the 2G oil
lines for the cooler, and your turbo setup.
The 2G head will need to have the head stud
holes made bigger to accommodate the
6-Bolt head studs.
You will need to build/buy a wiring harness
Be prepared to buy DSMLink and 95-E-Prom ECU
if your Stock ECU is unhappy with
the simulated Crank signal. Its the only viable solution to eliminating
Random Misfire detection if the problem occurs.
What if I also have a 1G head?
1G intake manifold.
1G water neck with the radiator cap.
late 1G coil pack
Make a custom TB elbow for your late 1G or
2G TB. The EGR system can be disabled
or you can plumb a 2G map sensor and appropriate vacuum lines to a 2G
(See EGRhose.gif in the files section -
Make a bracket to mount the 2G injector
resistor pack to the 1G intake manifold.
The shifter counter weight on the
transmission is typically cut off to make room
for the lower radiator hose with a 1G water pipe.
Water pipe, and oil filter assembly
selection will depend what oil cooler you
decide to use.
1G or 2G water/oil cooler uses a 91'-92.5'
1G water pipe with water fittings
and a 91'-92.5' oil filter housing.
1G/after market air/oil coolers uses a 90'
1G water pipe without water fittings
and a 90' 1G oil filter housing with an air/oil cooler in three possible
1. Aftermarket air/oil cooler with custom
hoses and custom mounting
2. 90' 1G factory oil cooler with factory hoses and custom mounting
3. 97+ automatic transmission fluid cooler with factory hoses, a 97+
bumper with ducting and factory mounting hardware.
How do I get rid of the Random Misfire studded and check engine light?
RM (Random Misfire)The ECU is flagging a
misfire condition because the crank
sensor which originally drove the hyper accurate signal for the 2G ECU
been replaced and simulated by the not so accurate 1G CAS. The only
for this symptom once you have it is:
1. Start over again and do it the original
RRE way by modding the oil pump case
and keep the crank signal. RRE does not do it this way anymore, so why
2. Wire in a potentiometer on the barometric
sensor wire going to the
ECU,thereby fooling the ECU into thinking you are at very high elevation
barometric pressure) so it doesn't check for RM. This sounds simple,
but if you
don't tune the engine to compensate for the additional timing, you will
turning your piston's to goo which also kills your turbo. (Not a
3. Cutting the TPS sensor wire. This
actually appears to work for some
people,but since TPS is useful for data logging and tuning, its not a
term fix. This may also effect engine performance during times when the
rapid changes in throttle position.
4. Buying DSMLink and clicking a tiny little
checkbox which basically disables
the ECU logic that checks for RM.
Is there a step by step set of instructions on how to do the swap?
You are looking at them.
Step by step instructions have their value
in this world for some things, but I
don't think this is one if them. There are too many variable. JDM
example, have lots of different water necks and intake manifolds
what car they came out of. Some people want to use 2G heads and water
some people have Big PHAT turbo's with external WG etc etc etc..
If you are smart enough to do the swap, you
don't need my step by step
instructions. Please see a reputable speed shop (preferably one that
races cars and stands behind their work) if you want this kind of work