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Replace The 2nd Generation ('95-'99) Eclipse Motor with a 1st Generation ('89-'94) Eclipse motor.


Go here, read here, sign up here, participate here... a LOT:


RRE 6 Bolt Motor Swap CAS Harness

This is a cam angle sensor  harness for those of you who plan on swapping 6-bolt motor in your 2G's.  

What it does: It keeps you from digging around in junk yards for the connectors to make everything plug in. It allows you to not understand tricky wiring diagrams. It connects to a 91-94 1G Eclipse CAS on one side and at the other end it plugs into your 2G wire harness where your old 2G cam and crank angle sensors would have in order to give a cam and crank position signal to the ECU.

What it does not do: It does not help you deal with any potential random misfire codes. It does not read and understand for you all the information here and here. It does not make a 1G motor instantly magically start and run in your 2G. It does not explain you the difference between trying to use a green lid or black lid sensor. It does not work if you buy a '90 CAS. 


On '97-'99 Eclipses, you need to grab this blue wire from the 2G CAM sensor plug and solder to the white wire coming out the CAS harness. 

Price $50.00 Shipped!          Please specify _your_ vehicle year. Not the year of the motor or ECU, the year of the Eclipse is what we need.


Order it here

Ordering Information



Frequently Asked Questions:

What do I need to put a 1G/JDM 6-bolt short block into my Manual Trans Turbo 2G?

For a Short Block replacement, keeping all else 2G and stock;
You will need a COMPLETE 6 Bolt short block with pan, from flywheel to the
timing belt cover. The 1G timing belt cover will need to be modified to
accommodate the 2G motor mount. The flywheel type will need to matched your
manual trans type, AWD or FWD.
All DSM clutch are the same, AWD FWD 7Bolt and 6Bolt.
One bolt on the front if the transmission will not have a place to thread into
the 6 bolt block, and is usually backed up with a nut.
2G Starter/transmission alignment plate.
2G motor mount (modified to fit 1G water pump)
2G Alt
2G AC compressor mounting bracket and compressor
2G water pump pulleys
2G PS pump bracket mount and 2G PS bracket
1G or 2G crank pulley
1G or 2G Dip stick tube and stick.
Use 2G sensors to go with your 2G ECU;
TPS, Knock, Water Temp for ECU, Water Temp Gauge, Oil Pressure switch for the
idiot light, Oil pressure sender for the gauge, and O2 sensors.
The oil filter assembly should match the type of cooler you are going to use.
91'-92.5' were 6-bolt and water/oil cooled.
The water pipe and water neck will be 2G to match the 2G head, so the plumbing
will be all set to feed a Water/Oil type oil cooler. Save the 2G oil supply
lines for the cooler, and your turbo setup.
The 2G head will need to have the head stud holes made bigger to accommodate the
6-Bolt head studs.
The 2G crank signal will have to be replaced with a simulated Crank signal from
a 1G CAS. (See the RRE 1G CAS info pages)
You will need to build/buy a wiring harness for it.
Be prepared to buy DSMLink and 95-E-Prom ECU if your Stock ECU is unhappy with
the simulated Crank signal. Its the only viable solution to eliminating false
Random Misfire detection if the problem occurs.

What if I also have a 1G head?

Use a;
1G intake manifold.
1G water neck with the radiator cap.
1G thermostat
late 1G coil pack
Make a custom TB elbow for your late 1G or 2G TB. The EGR system can be disabled
or you can plumb a 2G map sensor and appropriate vacuum lines to a 2G EGR valve.
(See EGRhose.gif in the files section - )
Make a bracket to mount the 2G injector resistor pack to the 1G intake manifold.
The shifter counter weight on the transmission is typically cut off to make room
for the lower radiator hose with a 1G water pipe.
Water pipe, and oil filter assembly selection will depend what oil cooler you
decide to use.
1G or 2G water/oil cooler uses a 91'-92.5' 1G water pipe with water fittings
and a 91'-92.5' oil filter housing.
1G/after market air/oil coolers uses a 90' 1G water pipe without water fittings
and a 90' 1G oil filter housing with an air/oil cooler in three possible
1. Aftermarket air/oil cooler with custom hoses and custom mounting
2. 90' 1G factory oil cooler with factory hoses and custom mounting
3. 97+ automatic transmission fluid cooler with factory hoses, a 97+ front
   bumper with ducting and factory mounting hardware.

How do I get rid of the Random Misfire studded and check engine light?

RM (Random Misfire)The ECU is flagging a misfire condition because the crank
sensor which originally drove the hyper accurate signal for the 2G ECU has now
been replaced and simulated by the not so accurate 1G CAS.  The only remedies
for this symptom once you have it is:
1. Start over again and do it the original RRE way by modding the oil pump case
and keep the crank signal. RRE does not do it this way anymore, so why would
2. Wire in a potentiometer on the barometric sensor wire going to the
ECU,thereby fooling the ECU into thinking you are at very high elevation (low
barometric pressure) so it doesn't check for RM.  This sounds simple, but if you
don't tune the engine to compensate for the additional timing, you will end up
turning your piston's to goo which also kills your turbo. (Not a recommended
3. Cutting the TPS sensor wire.  This actually appears to work for some
people,but since TPS is useful for data logging and tuning, its not a good long
term fix. This may also effect engine performance during times when the ECU uses
rapid changes in throttle position.


4. Buying DSMLink and clicking a tiny little checkbox which basically disables
the ECU logic that checks for RM.
Is there a step by step set of instructions on how to do the swap?
You are looking at them.
Step by step instructions have their value in this world for some things, but I
don't think this is one if them.  There are too many variable.  JDM motors, for
example, have lots of different water necks and intake manifolds depending on
what car they came out of.  Some people want to use 2G heads and water necks,
some people have Big PHAT turbo's with external WG etc etc etc..
If you are smart enough to do the swap, you don't need my step by step
instructions.  Please see a reputable speed shop (preferably one that actually
races cars and stands behind their work) if you want this kind of work done



Contact Road///Race Engineering

13022 La Dana Ct.
Santa Fe Springs, Ca. 90670
Tel (562) 777-1522     Fax (562) 777-1562
Written by Justin DuBois

Last Updated 4/07