2G Upgrade Path

The following is a suggested upgrade path as put out by Mike at Road/Race Engineering.

PLEASE NOTE that all prices are current as of 3/07, but they can change at any moment, so do not take them as gospel. They are a general guide only, to give you an idea of roughly how much the mods will cost.

This is the upgrade path that we recommend for the second generation Eclipse/Talon. Here is the current list and prices. There is a reason that we are using the parts listed here - they work. They have not been chosen because they are in style or fresh, just proven. If you build an "all GReddy" or "all HKS" Eclipse, or if you want a Blitz BOV just because everyone else has a GReddy, your performance will suffer.
Mike W

I N I T I A L   M O D S

ITEM Nicer Choice Cost   Budget Choice Cost
Air filter K&N FIPK $125  
Basic Filter and Adapter Only

Install Air filter and remove the Boost Control Solenoid restrictor, which raises boost 2-3 psi, and remove the BOV dump tube (more air flow into turbo) $40 labor
Exhaust  Espelier JG-500 
(uses same down pipe adapter  system as RSR, Apexi)
  Muffler shop 2 1/2" - 1 resonator, straight thru muffler, simple tip, mandrel bent $250-400
Install exhaust $50 labor
Free Mods Remove Boost Control Solenoid Restrictor 
Remove BOV dump tube inside turbo inlet hose 
Open up I/C inlet (95-96) (Pic
Bigger vent in the wheel well behind the I/C (Pic)

Play with taking out the lower and side MAS honeycombs
   If you monitor O2 voltage and you don't mind a possible lumpy idle

Upper IC piping and BOV Cheaper: RRE upper pipe w/GReddy BOV 
Cheapest: RRE upper pipe w/your 1G used BOV

Install I/C pipe kit and BOV '95-'97 
'98-99 AWD
$30 labor
$50 labor


Next you need a turbo that can actually make some boost, but most people will spend some money on other stuff first. A turbo is more money but will make more of a difference dollar for dollar. The following is a list of things you don't really need without a turbo, but if you get them you will be laying the ground work for the turbo.

T U R B O   S U P P O R T

ITEM Nicer Choice Cost   Budget Choice Cost
Boost controller AEM Tru-Boost Boost Controller/Gauge Combo $295   RRE Manual Boost Control $50
Install Prices: 
Manual Boost Controller only 
Electronic Boost Controller only

VDO 52mm mechanical boost gauge
Electronic (non peak hold) 52mm boost gauge 
Electronic peak/hold 60mm boost gauge

A-Pillar Mounting Pod and labor




Spark Plugs and Wires Magnecor 8.5mm wires 
NGK BP7ES plugs
Install plugs and wires $20 labor
Fuel Pump  In-Tank 190 lph $100      
Install $80 labor
1G Throttle Body Used 1G TB (91-94) $100-200      
Install, port match 2G intake to match TB, and adjust TPS $120 labor
Exhaust Gas Temperature Gauge Electronic Peak/Hold 60mm $225     Electronic 52mm $165
Install EGT 
Install probe only
$80 labor
$35 labor
Downpipe RRE (RSR/Apex Style)
3" Steel

High Flow cat 3" $150   2 1/2" $150
Install $40 labor


OK, now you really need a turbo. With the turbos up to the the 18-G, you can keep the boost down and need only an upgraded fuel pump. To run over 15-16 psi boost on pump gas safely, you will need more fuel. Even at 13-14 psi, these turbos will all blow away the T-"Too Small" Garrett at 16 psi.


ITEM Description Cost
Ultra Budget Turbo TDO5-14b-6cm (1G stock turbo) 

    Costs you the price of the good used turbo ($free-$300) plus $675 in porting, installation, adapting parts, gaskets. 

($free-$300) plus $675

    DIY Hacker/Tweaker Install Kit  
    For use on 14B and 16G turbos 
    (Consists of 2 1/4" lower I/C pipe, 7cm gasket, 2 1/2" 
    DP gasket, SS oil supply line kit, oil drain gasket) 

Stealth T-28 Conversion 

    Upgrade your stock Garret into a T-28 exhaust side with a Super-60 compressor wheel. Bolts on like a stock turbo and looks stock.

About $1300
A Little more power TDO5-16G-7cm

    This turbo is good for solid low 12 second 1/4 mile times. It can sound manly to say you have a bigger turbo but this is what 98% of you need. 


    EVO3 GT 16G Turbo only 
    EVO3 GT 16G and stripped down Tweaker Kit  
    EVO3 GT 16G and Full Bonehead proof kit  
    EVO3 GT 16G installed with tax, everything ported, install parts, 2 1/4" lower IC pipe, gaskets, etc. The kit includes the HD SS 7cm gasket and the RRE SS oil supply line. 

PTE 50 Trim Turbo PTE 50 Trim Turbo 
  • PTE turbos come standard with Precision's TA31 style exhaust housings with a Mitsubishi Eclipse style flange with an A/R of  .63  The SCM50 comes with the T31 turbine wheel with a 2.559" inducer and 2.229" exducer (76 trim).  Each turbo comes with a 360-degree race thrust bearing center section and a T04E compressor cover with a 3-inch inlet and 2-inch outlet.  The SCM50 has a 54mm compressor wheel that has a 2.123" inducer and 3.000" exducer (50 trim).  Non-water cooled and non-ball bearing.  This turbo bolts up to stock DSM exhaust manifold and O2 housing.  The turbo does not not require porting.  Enough air flow for well over 450hp if properly tuned.  At this time we're only stocking internally gated and non-clipped 50 Trim PTE turbo.  Please specify car year and current intercooler setup.  Please note that a 90 degree elbow is not welded on to the compressor housing.  Comes with our 7cm SS turbo inlet gasket and oil drain gasket.  

    Turbo only:

External Wastegate An external waste gate may be required to control the boost if you are using one of the larger upgrade turbos, especially if you are running with no catalytic converter at "the track". We recommend TiAL wastegates
Wastegate only 
Install is custom 


OK, now your clutch is slipping pretty bad.


Good: ACT 2100lb with the street disc
Excellent All Around: Center Force 2500lb Ball Bearing Dual Friction
Excellent Racer Guy Clutch: ACT 2600lb with the street disc
Best All Around: RRE No Name Clutch 2700 Clamp Load with less pedal effort than the ACT 2600
(all prices include a factory T/O bearing)

Lighten flywheel and resurface (exchange)
RRE No Name Chromoly Light Flywheel 
Install AWD
Install FWD
Stainless Steel Clutch Hydraulic Line



$  20


To take full advantage of all the air flow that you now have, you need more fuel and the ability to control it.


A I R / F U E L

Air Larger 2 1/4" Turbo Inlet pipe $45
Fuel  Super AFC  
This allows you to modify the signal from the MAS (air flow meter) 
to the ECU to help trick the ECU so that you can lean things out to 
make up for larger fuel injectors. The AFC will also help compensate 
for removed honeycombs to make for a smooth idle. 

With the stock injectors (450cc/min) running out of capacity at 15-16 psi boost on pump (92) gas, you need to swap them out with larger injectors. 550cc/min work well on pump gas up to around 16-17 psi on pump gas and with race gas up to 22 psi. With the larger 660cc and 720cc injectors, you can run more like 19-20 psi on the street and as much as your motor can take on race gas. 

RC/Lucas 550cc injectors (set  of 4) 
Denso 550cc injectors        (set of 4) 
Denso 660cc injectors        (set of 4) 
Denso 720cc injectors        (set of 4)

Intercooler Front Mount Intercooler
   GReddy Kit
   GReddy Kit and install

Cams Street Car: HKS 264 Intake/272 Exhaust combo
Race Car:   HKS 272 Intake/272 Exhaust combo
(When we say "Street car, we mean a car that you care about bottom end power and response. "Race" is a car that you want mad top end power and don't care much about bottom end power or spool up.)
Install cams





With proper tuning, race gas, and driving like a man possessed, the above parts are good for 11.96@115 mph with a 16G turbo and 11.8@118 on a GReddy 18G so far (proven at the track). Both cars were full weight and with stock 2G intake manifolds and stock 2G cylinder heads.

F U R T H E R   W O R K

2G Head Port 2G Cylinder Head
Remove and install head
Head swap Head Swap to 1G Head
   (bigger than the 2G head to start with)
Plus parts
Plus porting
Plus valve job

Intake Extrude Hone 2G Intake Manifold (exchange)
Remove and install
Ignition AEM Twin Power CDI
Install (wiring only)

With out tuning knowledge, all these parts are worthless. Power with out maintenance, brakes, suspension and more maintenance is stupid. When you get wheel hop, you will break your center diff (AWD) or front diff (FWD), this happens just when you spent all your money to get enough power to make some real good wheel hop. You can; break it and then be all broke and weld it, break it and buy a Quaife if you are rich, or replace it before you break it, or just don't do anything that makes wheel hop. Stiffer motor mounts, Energy Suspension bushings and better shocks help towards that goal. 

Prices good at 1/02. Prices are subject to change with out notice. Install prices are for local customers only. Install prices may vary if your car is a star in the Dope Show. All prices are doubled if you have a bunch of messed up parts from the 909 area code land that leak, fall off, or cause an injury. $100 charge for every time your alarm goes off, on a slow day we reserve the right to set it off just for the extra cash so be sure it will NOT work when you drop it off.



Questions, suggestions, comments, constructive criticism and/or corrections? Email me at talonts@vfaq.com.

This document can be reprinted for personal use or reference for your mechanic(s) with no prior permission needed. It can be linked to directly, as long as you have a link to the main VFAQ page of http://www.vfaq.com, though linking to the main page instead is preferred. This document can NOT be reprinted for profit/resale/redistribution of ANY type without expressed WRITTEN permission from me in advance. Bulk copying of this document onto your web site without prior permission will not be tolerated, link to it instead. 

Last modified: August 07, 2006
Copyright 1998-2006, Road/Race Engineering, Tom Stangl