The following is a suggested upgrade path as put out by Mike at Road/Race Engineering.
PLEASE NOTE that all prices are current as of 3/07, but they can
change at any moment, so do not take them as gospel. They are a general
guide only, to give you an idea of roughly how much the mods will cost.
|This is the upgrade path that we recommend for the second generation Eclipse/Talon. Here is the current list and prices. There is a reason that we are using the parts listed here - they work. They have not been chosen because they are in style or fresh, just proven. If you build an "all GReddy" or "all HKS" Eclipse, or if you want a Blitz BOV just because everyone else has a GReddy, your performance will suffer.|
I N I T I A L M O D S
|ITEM||Nicer Choice||Cost||Budget Choice||Cost|
|Air filter||K&N FIPK||$125||
Basic Filter and Adapter Only
|Install Air filter and remove the Boost Control Solenoid restrictor, which raises boost 2-3 psi, and remove the BOV dump tube (more air flow into turbo)||$40 labor|
|Exhaust|| Espelier JG-500
AWD or FWD
(uses same down pipe adapter system as RSR, Apexi)
|Muffler shop 2 1/2" - 1 resonator, straight thru muffler, simple tip, mandrel bent||$250-400|
|Install exhaust||$50 labor|
Remove Boost Control Solenoid Restrictor
Remove BOV dump tube inside turbo inlet hose
Open up I/C inlet (95-96) (Pic)
Bigger vent in the wheel well behind the I/C (Pic)
|Upper IC piping and BOV||Cheaper: RRE upper pipe w/GReddy BOV
Cheapest: RRE upper pipe w/your 1G used BOV
|Install I/C pipe kit and BOV '95-'97
Next you need a turbo that can actually make some boost, but most people will
spend some money on other stuff first. A turbo is more money but will make more
of a difference dollar for dollar. The following is a list of things you don't
really need without a turbo, but if you get them you will be laying the ground
work for the turbo.
T U R B O S U P P O R T
|ITEM||Nicer Choice||Cost||Budget Choice||Cost|
|Boost controller||AEM Tru-Boost Boost Controller/Gauge Combo||$295||RRE Manual Boost Control||$50|
Manual Boost Controller only
Electronic Boost Controller only
A-Pillar Mounting Pod and labor
|Spark Plugs and Wires||Magnecor 8.5mm
NGK BP7ES plugs
|Install plugs and wires||$20 labor|
|Fuel Pump||In-Tank 190 lph||$100|
|1G Throttle Body||Used 1G TB (91-94)||$100-200|
|Install, port match 2G intake to match TB, and adjust TPS||$120 labor|
|Exhaust Gas Temperature Gauge||Electronic Peak/Hold 60mm||$225||Electronic 52mm||$165|
Install probe only
|Downpipe||RRE (RSR/Apex Style)
|High Flow cat||3"||$150||2 1/2"||$150|
OK, now you really need a turbo. With the turbos up to the the
18-G, you can keep the boost down and need only an upgraded fuel pump. To run
over 15-16 psi boost on pump gas safely, you will need more fuel.
Even at 13-14 psi, these turbos will all blow away the T-"Too Small" Garrett at
T U R B O S
|Ultra Budget Turbo||TDO5-14b-6cm (1G stock turbo)
Costs you the price of the good used turbo ($free-$300) plus $675 in porting, installation, adapting parts, gaskets.
|($free-$300) plus $675|
DIY Hacker/Tweaker Install Kit
|A Little more power||TDO5-16G-7cm
This turbo is good for solid low 12 second 1/4 mile times. It can sound manly to say you have a bigger turbo but this is what 98% of you need.
|PTE 50 Trim Turbo||PTE 50 Trim Turbo
|External Wastegate||An external waste gate may be required to
control the boost if you are using one of the larger
upgrade turbos, especially if you are running with no catalytic
converter at "the track". We recommend TiAL wastegates.
Install is custom
OK, now your clutch is slipping pretty bad.
C L U T C H
Good: ACT 2100lb with the street disc
Excellent All Around: Center Force 2500lb Ball Bearing Dual Friction
Excellent Racer Guy Clutch: ACT 2600lb with the street disc
Best All Around: RRE No Name Clutch 2700 Clamp Load with less pedal effort than the ACT 2600
(all prices include a factory T/O bearing)
Lighten flywheel and resurface (exchange)
RRE No Name Chromoly Light Flywheel
Stainless Steel Clutch Hydraulic Line
To take full advantage of all the air flow that you now have, you need more
fuel and the ability to control it.
A I R / F U E L
|Air||Larger 2 1/4" Turbo Inlet pipe||$45|
|Fuel|| Super AFC
This allows you to modify the signal from the MAS (air flow meter)
to the ECU to help trick the ECU so that you can lean things out to
make up for larger fuel injectors. The AFC will also help compensate
for removed honeycombs to make for a smooth idle.
With the stock injectors (450cc/min) running out of capacity at 15-16 psi boost on pump (92) gas, you need to swap them out with larger injectors. 550cc/min work well on pump gas up to around 16-17 psi on pump gas and with race gas up to 22 psi. With the larger 660cc and 720cc injectors, you can run more like 19-20 psi on the street and as much as your motor can take on race gas.
|Intercooler||Front Mount Intercooler
GReddy Kit and install
|Cams||Street Car: HKS 264 Intake/272 Exhaust combo
Race Car: HKS 272 Intake/272 Exhaust combo
(When we say "Street car, we mean a car that you care about bottom end power and response. "Race" is a car that you want mad top end power and don't care much about bottom end power or spool up.)
With proper tuning, race gas, and driving like a man possessed, the above
parts are good for 11.96@115 mph
with a 16G turbo and 11.8@118 on a GReddy 18G so far (proven at the track). Both
cars were full weight and with stock 2G intake
manifolds and stock 2G cylinder heads.
F U R T H E R W O R K
|2G Head||Port 2G Cylinder
Remove and install head
|Head swap||Head Swap
to 1G Head
(bigger than the 2G head to start with)
Plus valve job
|Intake||Extrude Hone 2G Intake Manifold
Remove and install
|Ignition||AEM Twin Power CDI
Install (wiring only)
With out tuning knowledge, all these parts are worthless. Power with out maintenance, brakes, suspension and more maintenance is stupid. When you get wheel hop, you will break your center diff (AWD) or front diff (FWD), this happens just when you spent all your money to get enough power to make some real good wheel hop. You can; break it and then be all broke and weld it, break it and buy a Quaife if you are rich, or replace it before you break it, or just don't do anything that makes wheel hop. Stiffer motor mounts, Energy Suspension bushings and better shocks help towards that goal.
Prices good at 1/02. Prices are subject to change with out notice. Install prices are for local customers only. Install prices may vary if your car is a star in the Dope Show. All prices are doubled if you have a bunch of messed up parts from the 909 area code land that leak, fall off, or cause an injury. $100 charge for every time your alarm goes off, on a slow day we reserve the right to set it off just for the extra cash so be sure it will NOT work when you drop it off.
Questions, suggestions, comments, constructive criticism and/or corrections?
Email me at firstname.lastname@example.org.
This document can be reprinted for personal use or reference for your mechanic(s) with no prior permission needed. It can be linked to directly, as long as you have a link to the main VFAQ page of http://www.vfaq.com, though linking to the main page instead is preferred. This document can NOT be reprinted for profit/resale/redistribution of ANY type without expressed WRITTEN permission from me in advance. Bulk copying of this document onto your web site without prior permission will not be tolerated, link to it instead.
Last modified: August 07, 2006
Copyright 1998-2006, Road/Race Engineering, Tom Stangl