The following is a suggested upgrade path by Mike at Road/Race Engineering.
PLEASE NOTE that all prices are current as of 9/02, but they can
change at any moment, so do not take them as gospel. They are a general
guide only, to give you an idea of roughly how much the mods will cost.
|This is the upgrade path that we recommend for the first generation
Eclipse/Talon. Here is the current list and prices. There is a reason
that we are using the parts listed here - they work. They have not been
chosen because they are in style or fresh, just proven. If you build an
"all GReddy" or "all HKS" Eclipse, or if you want a
Blitz BOV just because everyone else has a GReddy, your performance will
How we do it and when we do it (in order) on a 1G: (after you do a timing belt)
|ITEM||Nicer Choice||Cost||Budget Choice||Cost|
|Air filter||Road/Race Uni-foam Filter
|Exhaust||Apex N-1 for AWD cars||$490||Muffler shop 2 1/2" - 1 resonator, straight thru muffler, simple tip, mandrel bent, cat back||$250-450|
|Install exhaust||$40 labor|
|Free Mods||Install Air filter and remove the BCS restrictor (raises
boost 2-3 psi), Cut
air can for more air flow,
|Fuel Pump||A direct replacement, your stock fuel pump flows 100 liters per hour @ 43 psi @ 12V. This pump flows 150 lph. Denso In-Tank.||$165|
|Boost controller||GReddy PRofec-B||$350
|Manual Boost Control||$60
|Boost gauge||GReddy Electronic 60mm
GReddy Electronic 52mm
|Install & A-Pillar Mounting Pod||$70|
|Upper I/C piping and BOV
(local installs only)
|RRE Curved upper I/C pipe 2 1/4"
(to clear cruise or ABS)
|$225||RRE Straight upper pipe 2 1/2"
(If you are man enough to junk your cruise control, ABS, or battery and everything in the way)
|Install upper pipes
The RRE upper pipes can be more custom matched to the car, straighter and larger diameter.
|Spark Plugs and Wires||Magnecor 8.5mm wires
NGK BP7ES plugs (set of 4)
|Install plugs and wires||$10|
|Down pipe||RRE 2 1/2"||$200||RRE 3"||$250|
|Install down pipe||$20|
|High Flow catcon||2 1/2"||$150||3"||$150|
|Apexi AFC||To take full advantage of all the air flow that you now
and are about to have, you need more fuel and the ability to control it.
It may seem a little early to be concerned about more fuel but the stock
turbo can easily max out even 550c injectors (stock are 450cc) on the
street with pump (92) gas.
The Apexi AFC fuel controller takes the signal from the Mass Airflow Sensor and either speeds it up or slows it down at different rpm points to trick the ECU run the injectors to run richer or leaner.
|AFC and RC/Lucas 550cc injectors||$600||AFC and Denso 660cc injectors||$750|
|Install AFC and Injectors
Includes new o-rings, hook up the Data Logger and show you how to tune it.
|Exhaust Gas Temperature Gauge
(Necessary for tuning the AFC and running safe)
|GReddy Electronic Peak/Hold 60mm||$225||GReddy Electronic 52mm||$165|
Install probe only
|Jumptronix A/F Ratio Meter||Digital readout of the O2 sensor voltage||$85|
|Install Jumptronix Meter||$30|
|Port Exhaust Parts||This is good for 15hp alone. The stock
manifold flows well enough for up to around 400hp if ported, along with
the exhaust housing of the turbo and the turbo outlet (O2 sensor
Port Exhaust Manifold
Port Turbo Exhaust housing
Port Waste Gate
Port Compressor Outlet
Port O2 Sensor housing
Wicked Port All
If Exhaust Manifold is cracked, new 2G manifold
Broken Studs (common)
|If your turbo is dead, time to upgrade. With the 16-G, you can keep the boost down and need only an upgraded fuel pump. To run over 15-16 psi boost on pump gas safely, you will need more fuel.|
|This turbo is good for solid low 12 second
1/4 mile times. It can sound manly to say you have a bigger turbo but
this is all 98% of you need.
Clip 10 degrees (best for dragster types only)
Porting (see above)
Install Gaskets (inc 7cm gasket)
Broken Studs (common)
SS Oil Supply Line (optional)
|For larger turbos you will need an upgraded intercooler and something to either upgrade the 1G MAS to a larger one or eliminate it.|
|This turbo is rated to 425hp and will run
Clipping 5-15 Degrees
Install is custom
|Biggee Turbos A Mitsubishi TD0-6 cartridge and exhaust wheel. Uses a Mitsubishi 7cm exhaust housing that has been bored to fit the TDO-6 wheel. The 20-G style compressor housing is machined to fit a Garrett 46 trim or 50 trim wheel making it effectively a bolt-on T3-T4 turbo.|
|Biggee Turbo||Turbo only
Install is custom
$1250 to $1375
|An external waste gate may be required to control the boost if you are using one of the larger upgrade turbos, especially if you are running with no catalytic converter at "the track". A well running 16G without a cat will also require an external waste gate.|
|TiAL Wastegate||WG only
Install is custom
|With AFC: Take out the lower MAS honeycomb if you monitor O2 voltage and EGT|
|For applications over 275hp cut away lower MAS channel entirely or switch to 2G MAS or HKS VPC|
|2G MAS Install - Flows more air than the stock air flow meter. Needs a 2G air filter and turbo inlet hose. Must be used with the AFC.|
|2G MAS Install||Used 2G MAS
2G Injen Filter
|HK$ VPC Variable Performance Computer - Eliminates factory air flow meter for less restriction before the turbo. Uses the factory air box with air flow meter removed, or buy a K&N-type open filter & adapter to replace air box completely. Different programs available for stock injectors or 550cc injectors. For larger injectors, we use the AFC to further compensate. In cold weather, it can cause poor fuel mileage and/or erratic idle speed. HK$, the losers that they are, can not seem to ever have them in stock. We gave up. $900 was too much anyway.|
|HKS VPC||Used VPC
|Now your clutch is slipping pretty bad.|
|Clutches||Excellent All Around CF 2500lb Ball
Best but Strong Left Leg: ACT 2600lb
Lighten flywheel and re-surface
Install labor AWD
Install labor FWD
|IC mods||Modify stock I/C with larger inlet and outlet with 2 1/4" piping||$200|
|FMICs||Front Mount Intercooler
RRE/Griffin top to bottom flow, inc. piping from the turbo to the IC and from the IC to the fender well area.
IC with end tanks only
Raw pipe bends and hose and clamps
|Cams||Street Car: HKS 264 Intake/272 Exhaust combo
Race Car: HKS 272 Intake/272 Exhaust combo
(When we say "Street car, we mean a car that you care about bottom end power and response. "Race" is a car that you want mad top end power and don't care much about bottom end power or spool up.)
|Ignition||MSD Digital DIS-2
Install MSD (Under hood only)
|Throttle body||Install a bigger throttle body and port
the intake manifold inlet to match
Throttle Body (exchange)
Install, port match, and adjust TPS
|Cylinder Head||Port Cylinder Head
Remove and install head
Upper Gasket Set
|Intake||Extrude Hone Intake Manifold
Without tuning knowledge, all these parts are worthless. Power with out maintenance, brakes, suspension and more maintenance is stupid. When you get wheel hop, you will break your center diff (AWD) or front diff (FWD), this happens just when you spent all your money to get enough power to make some real good wheel hop. You can break it and then be all broke and weld it, break it and buy a Speed Design 4spider diff, break it and buy a Quaife if you are rich, replace it before you break it, or just don't do anything that makes wheel hop. Stiffer motor mounts, Energy Suspension bushings and better shocks help towards that goal.
Prices good as of 9/02. Prices are subject to change without notice.
Install prices are for local customers only. Install prices may vary if your car
is a star in the Dope Show. All prices are doubled if you have a bunch of messed
up parts from the 909 area code land that leak, fall off, or cause an injury.
$100 charge for every time your alarm goes off, on a slow day we reserve the
right to set it off just for the extra cash so be sure it will not
work when you drop it off.